The selection of our interlining fabric by the clothing accessories factory basically includes: research according to the properties of fabrics, clothing varieties and design requirements and different parts of the clothing. How to make a reasonable compatibility seems to be a matter for the garment factory, but it is also an important issue for the fusible interlining manufacturer to develop new customers. To choose a suitable fusible interlining, not only should the shrinkage between the cloth and the interlining be close to each other. , But also to understand the characteristics of the clothes and the appearance performance required by the clothes.

1. Functionality

The performance of the interlining should match the performance of the clothing fabric. From the perspective of clothing materials, the fabric is the protagonist, and the interlining is the supporting role, but it directly affects the wearing effect of the clothing. It is the "skeleton" and essence of a piece of clothing, and should not be simply interpreted as a "backup". The function of modern interlining can be roughly summed up as follows: endow clothing with graceful curves and shapes; enhance the crispness and elasticity of clothing, enhance the three-dimensional feeling; improve clothing drape and fabric feel, and enhance the comfort of clothing; enhance the thickness, fullness and sense of clothing. Thermal insulation; prevent clothing from deforming and keep the original shape after being worn and washed; the role of local reinforcement of clothing. The characteristics of the fabric should be fully considered when choosing the interlining. There are mainly the following three aspects:

1. For heavy fabrics or fabrics with strengthened twists of warp and weft, generally choose a lining with a smaller mesh and a higher coating amount to ensure sufficient peel strength after bonding.

2. For light and thin fabrics, choose a lining with high mesh count and a small amount of coating to avoid glue leakage during bonding and ironing. Under the premise of ensuring the bonding quality, the temperature coefficient of the lining should be appropriately reduced during the bonding process. Energy consumption can be saved, better hand feeling can be obtained, and the yellowing phenomenon caused by high temperature during the bonding process can be solved. Some light fabrics require interlinings of the same or similar colors to match them to avoid color penetration.

3. The elastic fabric should be compatible with the elastic interlining (note: the elastic direction of the interlining should be the same when bonding), so that the clothing is not easy to foam.

Consider the purpose of the clothing. Some garments that need to be washed should choose washable linings. And it should be noted: In China, the cleaning of clothing is mainly water washing, and the adhesion of the interlining will be greatly reduced during the washing process. Therefore, an adhesive interlining with sufficient peel strength must be selected. According to GB/T2664-2001 and GB/T2665-2001 standards, the peel strength of the part covering the adhesive lining should be greater than or equal to 6N/62.5px×250px, and the size of the lining should not change too much after dry cleaning and washing, if the shrinkage is too large , Inconsistent with the shrinkage of the fabric, it will affect the appearance of the clothing. When sewing garments, choose an interlining that is consistent with the heat shrinkage of the fabric, otherwise wrinkles and pleating will occur.

2. Characteristics of clothing fabric fibers:

1. Natural fiber: It has a high moisture content, and after absorbing water, it is easy to cause changes in size and appearance. Normally, after dehydration, natural fibers can be restored to their original state.

2. Wool: The change in size has a significant relationship with the moisture content. After water absorption, the size of wool will increase a lot, and will shrink after drying, resulting in deformation of the clothes. Therefore, when choosing interlining, the fabric must be able to adapt to the size. Change, and pay attention to the control of the moisture content during the bonding process.

3. Silk: It is called heat-sensitive fabric. Pay attention to the surface changes (such as smooth surface) caused by heat and pressure. Therefore, it is necessary to avoid using high temperature, high pressure and steam, especially fabrics with satin texture, when bonding. Heat should be used. Fusible interlining with very fine melt glue.

4. Cotton: It has high heat resistance and has good recovery ability under steam. Therefore, cotton cloth is relatively stable during the hot melt bonding process, but if the cotton cloth has not been treated with shrinkage, it will usually have a higher Shrinkage rate, so when choosing interlining, it must be noted that the shrinkage rate of the two is similar.

5. Flax and linen fabrics: Hemp fiber clothing is usually difficult to obtain a strong adhesion, so special attention should be paid to the adhesion method to obtain a certain adhesion fastness.

6. Synthetic fiber: The cloth woven by polyester and nylon is not affected by water damage, but it is difficult to eliminate the creases caused by heat setting, so it is advisable to process the adhesive interlining at a temperature lower than that of heat setting. .

7. For acrylonitrile (artificial wool) fiber clothing, low-temperature hot-melt fusible interlining must be selected. Pay attention to light pressure when the hot-melt is just completed to prevent the bonding part from deforming.

Third, the characteristics of fabric organization structure

When choosing a fusible interlining, in addition to considering the feel, there are many other factors that need to be paid attention to:

1. Thin and translucent fabric

For example: voile, snow gauze, georgette, glitter fabric, etc. When bonding such fabrics, the following quality problems often occur: glue bleeding, cloud skein, or chromatic aberration. When choosing a fusible interlining, you should pay attention to the difference in color, and try to use the fusible interlining of fine rubber particles. In the case of dark fabrics, try to use colored rubber interlining to avoid the color difference of reflection and flash.

2. Elastic fabric

For example: elastic knitted fabric, etc., when choosing a fusible interlining, you should choose an interlining cloth with the same elasticity. Not only the warp elasticity, but also the consistency of the weft elasticity, otherwise the clothes are prone to deformation.

3. Smooth fabric

For example: satin silk, taffeta, etc., for fabrics with a smooth surface, you must choose some lining cloth with small rubber particles and strong adhesion.

4. Surface treated fabric

For example: seersucker, crepe de chine, and other surface style features are easily removed by the pressure during bonding processing, so low-pressure bonding interlining should be used. For example, crepe velvet, velveteen, corduroy, seal velvet, rat plush and other surface fluff are easy to be pressured and destroy the style. You need to pay special attention when choosing interlining.

Fourth, the choice of fusible interlining base cloth

The base fabrics include woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and non-woven fabrics. Starting from the requirements of wearing, pay attention to the following points when choosing:

1. Hand feeling, thickness and stiffness

After the interlining is bonded, the hot-melt bonding has a harder feel. When choosing an appropriate feel, you must consider the degree of stiffness required by different parts of the clothes. When choosing a non-woven base fabric, pay attention to whether there will be a hard and unsuitable hand feeling after heating and bonding.

2. Dimensional stability

The fusible interlining needs to maintain sufficient stability after washing or dry cleaning after the fusible interlining.

3. Directionality

The lining of the suit body needs to be soft in the vertical direction (warp direction) and firm in the horizontal direction (weft direction). Most woven, knitted or non-woven base fabrics have different warp and weft characteristics. Therefore, when choosing base fabrics, we must also consider whether they can maintain consistency with the fabric.

4. Follow-up ability (follow the characteristics and ability of fabrics)

The warp direction of the fusible interlining should always match the warp characteristics of the fabric. The interlining should be lighter and thinner than the fabric. It is the fabric that drives the interlining, not the fabric following the interlining.