Interlining can be divided into different types according to the following types:
a) According to the basic fabric structure, interlining cloth can be divided into 3 types
Woven lining
Knitted lining and
Non-woven interlining
b) According to its application points, the lining is classified as
Non-meltable or fusible
1. Woven lining
Mainly woven linings were used to reinforce/support coats, cloaks, robes or hats 100 years ago. It is mainly 100% cotton fabric, which is hardened by applying starch and is not easy to melt. However, the unpleasant hard feel and irregular characteristics during the washing process lead to the formation of a fusible interlining.
Ordinary cotton fabric is coated with a layer of adhesive, which can be fixed on the shell fabric by heating or pressing. This forms a composite part of the molten shell part and supports the outer shell for better drape and appearance.
The woven lining is mainly 100% cotton, and the linear density is variable according to the weight or stiffness required for a specific application. Now, poly-cotton blends can also be used to overcome the shrinkage problems faced by cotton fabrics with various warp and weft combinations such as rayon, expanded polyester and wool.
Advantages of woven linings The main advantages of woven linings are strength and stability, and therefore can be used for all such applications that require strength and stability, such as waistbands.
However, this may be disadvantageous when flexibility and soft hand feel are required.
Machine weaving is mainly plain weave, and sometimes crepe, herringbone or twill weave can be provided according to application needs.
In this case, the use of expanded multi-strand yarns can make the molten composite material have a full body feel, soft and natural feel or drape, while obtaining the strength, flexibility and lightness of the molten laminate without greatly changing The natural drape or texture of the outer shell fabric.
However, woven fabrics are expensive and are not suitable for cheaper casual clothing. Therefore, according to different uses, it is replaced by knitted fabrics that use a combination of rayon, rayon and wool for the body and volume.
2. Knitted lining
Knitted fabrics appropriately solve the main shortcomings of weaving, namely flexibility, lightness and soft feel. Knitted fabrics have various changes in loop structure to impart flexibility/elasticity and strength/stability together with the main body (volume).
By using fine bulky (textured) filaments, they can maintain the light weight and soft feel of the laminate. It is expensive, so it can be used for high-value clothing such as suit jackets and high fashion tops.
3. Non-woven interlining
As the name implies, there are no yarns for interweaving fabrics.
It is made directly from the fiber to the fabric stage, thereby reducing the cost of the basic fabric. Because there is no yarn used to make non-woven fabrics, it lacks the strength required for garment use, and there are many techniques used to give non-woven fabrics the required strength, called bonding. They are the most versatile products, ranging from 10gsm to 200gsm or even higher, and can provide lightweight, soft, flexible or strong products for any application that people think of. The basic manufacturing technology is mainly to use synthetic fibers to form a layer, and to impart strength through bonding.