Traditional clothing craftsmanship is to sew together the clothing materials by hand. Later, due to the development of bonding technology, interlinings were produced, and bonding was used instead of stitching, which brought new changes to the clothing craftsmanship.

Introduction of interlining

Interlining is a clothing accessory that is attached to the inner surface of clothing fabrics and plays a role in shape retention, shaping and modeling of clothing. It is applied to the collar, cuffs, body, hem, pocket opening, placket, hem, waistband, etc. of clothing. It can also be applied to shoes, hats, bags, cushions, etc.

Classification of interlining

At present, lining cloth can be roughly divided into four categories: black charcoal lining, horsetail lining, resin lining, and adhesive lining.

1. Black charcoal lining is made of cotton, chemical fiber, wool, pure spinning or blended yarn as warp yarn, which has natural elasticity, stiffness and warp drapability. It is mainly used for suits, coats, etc.

2. Horsetail lining is a wool lining made of horsetail as weft yarn, with natural rigidity and elasticity, and small shrinkage rate.

3. Resin lining is finished by high polymer resin. It has the characteristics of stiffness, small shrinkage rate and stable size. It is mostly used in collar lining, waist lining, hat lining, etc.

4. Fusible interlining is made by coating hot melt adhesive powder on the base cloth, which can achieve the role of clothing modeling and shape retention. It has the advantages of good washing resistance and no deformation after repeated washing. It is mostly used in clothing, shoes and hats, ornaments and so on.

Bonding mechanism of fusible interlining

The adhesion of the fusible interlining mainly comes from the thermoplasticity of the hot melt adhesive. At room temperature, the hot melt adhesive is "glassy"; as the temperature rises, the hot melt adhesive becomes soft and elastic, showing a "high elastic state"; continue to heat up to the melting temperature, the hot melt adhesive melts and flows, It is "viscous flow state". These three states are all reversible.

Quality evaluation of interlining

External quality: The base fabric has good uniformity, good resilience, good hand feel, no wrinkles, consistent width, uniform and reasonable glue point distribution, no leaks, no powder, appropriate glue amount, etc.

Intrinsic quality: the heat shrinkage rate and water shrinkage rate of the lining cloth are small, and the adhesion fastness is high. After washing, it will not foam or deform.

In addition, although the interlining is used as a clothing lining, its quality requirements are stricter than the fabric in some respects. The reason is simple, because the quality of a small piece of interlining can affect the use value of a garment. As a textile, interlining should not only perform general appearance quality inspection, but also focus on its internal quality and performance requirements to ensure the use value of the finished garment.